Knowing where your shutoffs are before a leak happens is the difference between a mop-up and a flood. This is a two-minute skill. Learn it now, while everything is dry — future you, standing in an inch of garage water, will be grateful.
The three things you need to find today
One: the cold-water shutoff — usually a valve on the pipe entering the top of the heater. Turn it clockwise to close. Two: the heat source — the gas control knob on a gas unit, or the dedicated breaker (labeled ‘water heater’) on an electric. Three: the main house water shutoff, for when the heater’s own valve is stuck. Go find all three right now. Seriously — this article will wait.
Gas heater: step by step
Water first: cold-water inlet valve, clockwise until it stops. Then the gas control knob — turn it to ‘pilot’ or ‘off.’ That is the whole shutdown. Do not touch the gas line itself, do not disassemble the burner, and if you smell gas at any point, leave the area and call your gas utility instead of continuing.
Electric heater: step by step
Water first, same as gas: inlet valve clockwise. Then the dedicated breaker to off — not just the thermostat, the breaker. Confirm the power is actually dead if you can. And remember the rule for later: the breaker stays off until the tank is completely refilled and bled of air, or you will burn out an element.
When NOT to touch it
If water is pooling around the breaker panel or you see sparking, do not reach through water to flip anything — call instead. If the shutoff valve will not turn, do not force it with a wrench; old gate valves snap, and then you have two problems. Use the main house shutoff. If you smell gas, do not touch any switches at all — leave and call the gas utility.
After the shutdown
Water off and heat source off means the leak is no longer being fed. Move valuables, lay down towels, and note where the water was coming from — top, side pipe, drain valve, or base. Then call (833) 713-2101 and describe what you see. The shutdown you just did is half the job; we handle the rest.